Philodendron brandtianum
When I walked in the door with heaps of trailing vines dangling out of my arms, I could see my husband struggling not to roll his eyes.
“Yes, another houseplant,” I conceded, “but look at these leaves!”
I had managed to make him fall in love with the velvety hearts on my micans philodendron, and there was no way he wasn’t going to be impressed by the iridescent silver on the brandi (Philodendron brandtianum) I was attempting to smuggle into our house.
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Spoiler alert: he did indeed fall head over heels. How could he not?
Each heart-shaped leaf is streaked, splotched, and otherwise mottled with silvery-gray highlights.
Some leaves are almost entirely silver, with just the veins showing the dark green base hue.
It’s every bit as beautiful as a heart-leaf philodendron with the added interest of the silvery markings.
While the silver leaf philodendron is not as popular as its ‘Brasil,’ micans, and heartleaf cousins, to me that just makes it all the more special.
I can’t wait to explore this plant more with you, so let’s dig in. Here’s what we’ll discuss:
Philodendron brandtianum is commonly called brandi or silver leaf philodendron, though “brandi” should actually be brandti. Oh well.
It’s an aroid, secondary hemiepiphyte or epiphyte that grows in trees, usually from seeds dropped by passing birds or mammals, though sometimes it will start life in the ground and then find a tree to climb up as it matures.
Not only is it a vining type of plant, but it has an “appressed” climbing habit, which means it grows closely pressed and attached to the trunk of the tree.
Sometimes a vine that starts life in the ground will climb a tree and sever its contact with the ground.
Others spend their whole lives in a tree from start to finish. Some start in the tree and drop roots into the ground.
Quick Look
Common name(s): Brandi, silver leaf philodendron
Plant type: Vining aroid
Hardiness (USDA Zone): 10b-11b (outdoors)
Native to: South America
Bloom time / season: Evergreen
Exposure: Bright, indirect light, dappled shade
Soil type: Loose, organically-rich, well draining
Soil pH: 5.5-6.5, slightly acidic to neutral
Time to maturity: 5 years
Mature size: 1 ft wide x 5-20 ft long
Best uses: Houseplant, hanging basket, container specimen
Taxonomy
Order: Alismatales
Family: Araceae
Genus: Philodendron
Species: Brandtianum
Silver leaf philodendron is often confused with silver pothos (Scindapsus pictus), but Scindapsus has more rounded foliage, while that of the philodendron is more heart-shaped.
Both change shape as the leaves age, with those of the philodendron becoming longer with pronounced veins. Those of Scindapsus are thicker and more succulent.
I’ve seen Scindapsus sold as brandi before, so make sure you look closely at what you are purchasing!
P. brandtianum is often mislabeled as P. variifolium, but they are completely different species.
Don’t confuse it with silver sword philodendron (P. hastatum), either.
They don’t look particularly similar, since silver sword has more ovate leaves and a faint silvery sheen, but the names are close.
As it takes on its mature form, the variegation of the foliage fades away and the leaves become more elongated and somewhat leathery, known as subcoriaceous.
Mature plants will flower, a striking dark green and deep violet inflorescence with a spathe and spadix and, later, seeds.
Unless you give it something to climb up to 30 or more feet toward brighter light, it probably won’t ever mature and flower.
As each leaf develops, it’s surrounded by a protective cataphyll. You’ll also see aerial roots develop.
These are hairless, non-branching growths used to anchor the plant to the tree and absorb rainwater.
Silver leaf philodendron is indigenous to South America, from Central Brazil to lowland Bolivia, Ecuador, and Peru, and can be grown outdoors in USDA Hardiness Zones 10b to 11b.
There are lots of ways to enjoy your brandi philodendron. It’s a classic choice, draping over a container and down a shelf, but you can also give it a pole or some other support.
Vining philodendrons are actually happiest when you give them a moss pole or something to climb.
How to Grow
If you’ve raised a heart-leaf or micans philodendron, you’ll do just fine with a silver leaf.
Soil
You can grow these houseplants in a standard potting mix and they’ll do just fine.
But if you want to really make your brandi happy, you want to give it something chunky, loose, and not too rich.
You can find potting mediums formulated for aroids that are typically made from ingredients like orchid bark, peat, perlite, and coconut coir.
Even better, look for a product with charcoal and worm castings like Gardenera Aroid Potting Mix.
Gardenera Aroid Potting Mix
You can find it available via Amazon in one- to 20-quart bags.
If you grow your silver leaf philodendron in this medium, you’ll need to water more often than you would if it was growing in regular potting mix to keep the medium consistently moist.
This is exactly what the plant prefers.
Water
These plants like it when the potting medium remains lightly moist but not soggy or wet. The best way to describe it is to keep the soil like a well-wrung-out sponge at all times.
The frequency of watering will depend entirely on the temperature, air movement, size of container, and time of year.
Water when the surface of the soil starts to dry out or when a moisture meter tells you the soil is on the cusp of dry.
If you mount your philodendron you pretty much can’t overwater it.
During the winter, when the plant is partially dormant, allow the soil to nearly, but not completely, dry out between watering.
Light
Provide bright, indirect light all day long. Dappled sunlight or morning light is fine, too.
The silvery coloring tends to be more pronounced in bright light, so don’t keep this plant in a gloomy corner and expect it to sparkle.
Temperature and Humidity
Like other vining philodendrons, temperatures in the 60s and 70s are perfect.
If the temperature climbs into the 80s or 90s for short periods, it is fine, as are temperatures in the 50s. Exposing it to below 50°F and you risk killing the plant.
In the right conditions with cool nights and cool days with shorter daylight than during the summer, the plant can become deciduous and drop its leaves during the dormant season.
It will regrow the foliage in the spring.
As with most trailing philodendrons, it likes humidity to be around 50 to 80 percent, but it will be fine in lower humidity. You might see some brown leaf tips, if the air is too dry.
Fertilizing
For mounted plants or those in an aroid-specific medium, feed once a week during the growing season with a mild, balanced food. Reduce feeding to once a month in the winter.
For plants in a standard potting mix or growing in the ground, feed once a month.
There are lots of foliage-focused fertilizers out there that will work well with this plant. You can even find those formulated specifically for aroids.
Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro Super Thrive
I use Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro Super Thrive formulation for all my aroids. You can find it in eight-ounce containers via Amazon.
Where to Buy
It’s certainly not the most common philodendron on the market, but it’s not super rare, either. You can probably find it at some local specialty nurseries or online.
Philodendron Brandtianum
For example, the Thirsty Leaves Store at Amazon has live plants in four to six-inch pots.
Maintenance
Silver leaf philodendron doesn’t need much in the way of maintenance. You should always remove dead, damaged, or discolored leaves as you see them.
Beyond that, pruning is entirely at your discretion. If a vine is long and there is a lot of distance between the leaves, you can prune it back to encourage bushier growth.
Make your cut right in front of a leaf node using a clean pair of scissors. While you’re at it, move the plant into brighter light to promote denser growth.
You can learn more about pruning philodendrons here.
Propagation
You can easily propagate brandi philodendrons from stem cuttings or by division.
From Cuttings
To take a cutting, look for a healthy vine about a foot long. You can either cut the whole vine off and then cut it into sections, or just take a tip cutting.
Each section needs to be a minimum of three inches long with two or more leaf nodes.
With philodendron cuttings (and monstera, incidentally), I usually start them in water because it’s so easy and they root so well.
If you decide to start your cuttings in soil, you need to commit to keeping the medium moist at all times.
To start in water, put the cutting in a glass jar so that one of the leaf nodes is under water and the rest of the cutting is propped up above the water.
Alternatively, fill a small container with water-retentive potting mix and plant the cutting so at least one leaf node is buried.
Place them in a spot with bright, indirect light and if you’re using soil, keep it moist but not wet at all times.
Within a few weeks, roots should start forming. Wait until you can see several roots that are at least two inches long before you move the cutting started in water to potting mix.
Those in soil can be treated as a normal plant so long as they are firm and don’t turn brown or collapse. They’ll eventually form roots and grow.
To move a cutting rooted in water to a container, fill a pot with potting soil formulated for aroids and poke a little hole in it.
Place the cutting in the soil with the roots buried and just a small section of stem buried. Moisten the soil and care for the new plant as you would a mature brandi.
By Division
As these plants grow, they can develop a lot of stems growing out of the crown and you can separate these to make more plants.
To do this, remove the plant from the container and gently tease apart the roots and a section or several sections of stems. Usually, there will be a natural division that you can find.
You might need to use some scissors or pruners, and if so, make sure you sanitize your tools. Wash them with hot, soapy water or wipe them with isopropyl alcohol.
Repot each section in its own clean container, filling around the roots with aroid potting soil.
Managing Pests and Disease
If you grow philodendrons long enough, you’ll eventually see them start to weep.
This comes in the form of little droplets of water running down the leaves and falling off the tips. This isn’t caused by a disease or any type of problem.
Philodendrons have glands called hydathodes that produce liquid. This process is known as guttation. When there is excess liquid, it normally evaporates off the plant.
But if there is little air movement and cool temperatures, the liquid can’t evaporate, and it will accumulate on the leaf. There’s nothing wrong, it’s totally normal.
When it comes to pests, it’s just the usual suspects that attack most houseplants to keep an eye out for.
Pests
I have dozens of philodendron species in my house and not a single one of them has ever had a problem with pests.
But here are the big three that might come round, particularly if your plants are stressed:
Mealybugs
Mealybugs are critters in the family Pseudococcidae that usually thrive in warm, humid climates.
They usually have a white or grayish waxy coating which can make them look like symptoms of a fungal disease. This is especially true because they tend to stay in place.
They use their sapsucking mouthparts to feed on plants, causing stunted growth and yellowing leaves.
Generally, you can scrape them off or wipe them with isopropyl alcohol, but heavier infestations might require a more concentrated effort.
Learn more about mealybugs here.
Scale
There are dozens of scale species that can feed on houseplants, but the chances are highly likely it will be brown soft scale (Coccus hesperidum) that attacks your philodendrons.
They look like little brown lumps and bumps, usually on the stems, but they can be anywhere.
You can scrape these off using a butter knife or wipe them with isopropyl alcohol and then spray with neem oil.
Our guide to dealing with scale has more information.
Spider Mites
Spider mites are super common, but they generally prefer dry conditions so they shouldn’t be attracted to your brandi philodendron.
If they are present, you’ll likely see webbing and the leaves will become speckled yellow and look dry.
You can usually control an infestation by spraying the mites off the plant using a strong stream of water every few days.
If that doesn’t work you might need to use an insecticide like neem oil or insecticidal soap.
Our guide to spider mites explains the details.
Disease
We’ve already mentioned one of the two major diseases that can impact philodendrons and that’s root rot. It’s caused by overwatering, which allows pathogens to proliferate.
It can usually be controlled by reducing water and treating with a fungicide, but you can learn all the details in our guide to root rot.
Otherwise, less often you might encounter bacterial leaf spot.
Caused by Erwinia species, it results in – you guessed it – spots on the leaves. These are usually black or dark brown but can also be yellow.
If you start seeing spots, spray your plants with a broad-spectrum biofungicide.
Monterey Complete Disease Control
Arbico Organics carries a good product called Monterey Complete Disease Control, available in 32-ounce ready-to-use, or in concentrate.
Spray your plant once every few weeks until no new symptoms develop.
The Silver Mother Lode
P. brandtianum has everything we love about philodendrons, with its adaptability, ease of care, and elegant form, plus a silvery accent that makes it stand out.
I can’t wait to hear about your adventures in mining for philo silver. Let us know in the comments below if you’re already growing this species or if you intend to in the future!
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